You know, I shouldn’t have given you a sneak peek of the Coffee Date Dress. I totally jinxed myself. After that post, I found out that one of the shoulder seam was torn because I might have over-trimmed the bulky seam allowance and I did not under-stitch.
Under-stitch? what the hell is that? I never heard of it before and when I read the instruction, I sort of just glossed over it. Luckily, I had enough fabric to re-do the bodice all over. And this time, I read the instruction carefully and researched on under-stitching. For you newbie out there, under-stitching is basically a way to prevent the facings/lining from rolling to the outside of the garment. This tutorial is as crystal clear as it gets.
Pattern Description: Coffee Date Dress designed by Elaine May, a basic dress with A line skirt and ruffle detail
Pattern Sizing: 32 – 42, I made size 34
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes
Were the instructions easy to follow? Elaine’s instruction was very straightforward. However, she referred to this tutorial for sewing an on-all-in-one facing. The tutorial was fairly clear from step 1 to 4 and I got confused from step 5 onward. I also used this tutorial as a supplement. The hardest part is seaming the front and back shoulder. Frankly, I haven’t figured it out (somebody help…). I was just kind of doing my own thing to get it to work. I am sure my result will be much better if I understand the trick. The other confusing part is under-stitching. I never heard of if before and I ignored it. My ignorance coupled with trimming way too much seam allowance resulted in a torn shoulder seam. I had to re-do the bodice all over but thanks to this under-stitching tutorial, I managed to recover.
The other tricky part is the invisible zipper, this is my first time. I used this tutorial. The result is not bad but it could be better, it didn’t look as invisible. I am glad invisible zipper installation is not as difficult as the centered zipper installation. I didn’t even have to use a special foot, a standard foot did just well.
Constructions and techniques learned:
– Sew all darts followed by joining front and back bodices on the side seam
– Construct and sew on ruffle
– Join skirt front and back on the side
– Sew skirt to bodice
– Install invisible zipper. I used this tutorial
– Seam the remaining center seam
– Hem skirt. I learned blind hem. it is simple and the result is wow. I used this tutorial
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Likes: great fit, I don’t have to alter the pattern at all. Simple construction but the result is so chic. I am going to wear it often
Dislikes: I wish there’s better instruction for sewing on all-in-one facing
Fabric Used: Wool flannel from Stone Mountain & Daughter in Berkeley, I purchased 2 yards and used them all up. If I didn’t mess it up, 1.5 yards is plenty. This fabric is from the 50% off section. I love this fabric shop, the best in Bay Area IMO. It has a great selection of fashion fabrics. The best part is the whole second floor is dedicated to discounted fabrics. Moreover, I regularly get a 20% off coupon in the mail.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I made no alterations
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I will sew it again with different fabric, I am inspired by Christina’s creation. I would recommend it for advanced beginner looking to sew beyond a boxy outfit.
The back side
I know…I know…the invisible zipper is quite visible. I am a beginner but I’ll do a better job next time